TONIGHT'S WINE: 2006 NICODEMI MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO
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J: It smells like an Italian wine. Blackberries. What are you getting?
K: What constitutes the "smell" of an Italian wine? I mean, I get what you're saying--but what are the characteristics that stick out that make you say that?
J: It's like...wood mixed with Bordeaux grapes. And yeasty dough.
K: I think it's a bit like sticking your head into a cedar chest full of ripe blackberries and cherries.
J: The color is very purple. Kind of fuchsia at the edge.
FIRST SIP
J: WOW. That is dry.
K: Smoky bing cherries. Ooh, you will not be able to drink this wine fast. Definately something to sip and contemplate.
J: The tannins sweeten later in the finish. It's a long finish, so it hangs around for a while before it turns sweet.
K: I'm getting blueberries, now that i'm a couple sips in.
J: It's a fairly complex wine. There's more to it, I just can't get it all yet. It's been open for about a half hour now, I feel it will soften as time goes on. It's really velvety, though.
K: I think the dryness will ease up after we've had a bit more.
J: Well, even after a few sips the dryness starts to fade a bit. Like you're building up a tolerance to it.
K: Like when you first spray on perfume--it's all you can smell for about ten minutes--but then you no longer notice. It's still there, just not to you.
...ABOUT AN HOUR LATER...
J: Very berry. It's cherry-like now.
K: The bit alcohol has cooled off, and it's so juicy. That cedar is coming through, but it's soft.
J: Let's talk about the grape, since the flavors are evolving continually and it's kind of hard to nail down. In contrast to other red Italian grapes however, this one is more approachable. Less intense than say, a Chianti.
K: This is a grape meant to be drunk young--but then there are some examples of Montepulciano that are the top of the line that can age for 10 to 20 years. Any Montepulciano aged beyond 2 years is given a "Riserva" labeling.
J: But then some of those expensive, aged Montepulcianos end up with barnyard flavors that most reviewers say is a taste to be accustomed to. I understand the hay, fall leaves, earth, and musty flavors--but "barnyard" has always had a negative interpretation for me.
K: I suppose that falls under the belief that because a wine is expensive and hard to find, it HAS to be good. But what can you do with an Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d'Abruzzo you paid $200 for and waited ten years to drink and end up hating?
J: I suppose if you had infinite money and were a wine collector, not liking a pricey bottle is probably akin to us not liking a bottle we paid $15--no skin off your nose.
K: I must take the opportunity to point out that there is a difference between Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is comprised of at least 85% Montepulciano grapes, the remaning grapes being Sangiovese. Vino Noblile di Montepulciano is named for the VILLAGE in Tuscany, and is made of mostly Sangiovese.
J: The "d" is the important thing here--not that I speak Italian--but our Montepulciano is from the Abruzzo region (d'Abruzzo = of Abruzzo), the mid-eastern coast of Italy, or the ankle of the boot, as my 5th grade teacher would say.
K: Like Moscato d'Asti. Do you remember that woman who came in and was short with Kate? She asked her if we had Moscato, to which she replied in a way any of us would--"Which one?" And she rolled her eyes and snapped, "d'Asti". Well, duh. But which vineyard?
J: Well, some Moscato is made in the US, but I doubt she was making that differentiation. D'Asti doesn't mean sparkling, and it doesn't mean sweet, it just means "of Asti".
K: I don't hate Moscato d'Asti--but it has it's place as a wine to be had with dessert or as dessert, and that's about it. Okay, enough about Moscato before I get whipped into a frenzy.
J: (laughing) I know! So on to the best part of wine--what do we eat with this?
K: I was reading the July issue of Gourmet this afternoon, and there were some sticky balsamic ribs that this would be good with. I've also been into short ribs lately--I think you could braise short ribs in this wine and serve them with creamy, cheesy polenta. Remember, you can drink the wine with the dish you cooked it in.
J: I'd say steak. With mushrooms cooked in a reduction of this wine.
K: Yes. So another cooking and drinking wine.
J: Exactly.
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